A PEACEFUL VALLEY

This description of a tourist trip up San Lorenzo Canyon appeared in the May 22, 1868 Daily Evening Herald of Stockton, California.

“In company with three gentlemen, we enjoyed a carriage ride of several miles, while awaiting the departure of the steamer. The day being warm made the shade of the new road we passed over most agreeable, and the scenery was such as added greatly to the enjoyment of the ride. The road led by the paper mills, not far from the town, and then by the powder mills not far distant. Here, where is formed this composition of such immense power that carries with its name the thoughts of war, of slaughtered men and groans of the dying, and sounds of musket volleys and roaring of artillery – here, where this powder is made, appeared the abode of peace and quiet. As the road led high up the mountain side, we looked down upon these grounds that were laid out tastefully, the flower gardens adding to its beauty, as the place appeared nestling in the little vale beneath us. How singular the contrast between the spot where this powder is made and the scenes which are often evolved from its destructive use!”  

Beauties of California, 1883

On the way up to Big Trees Grove, visitors often commented upon the impressive scene of the sprawling California Powder Works. In 1863 a group of San Francisco businessmen constructed the first West Coast explosive powder refinery in what became known as Powder Mill Canyon. “The powder works included twenty-one powder mills, ten shops, six magazines (warehouses), and thirty-five support structures, such as worker cottages, offices, stables, and the cookhouse.” By 1887, the complex produced four million pounds of powder annually. Over the next fifty years the California Powder Works remained the largest producer of explosives west of the Mississippi River. 

Author's Personal Collection

Earning particular praise from passing tourists was the home of B. Payton, Superintendent of the powder works. Payton’s “magnificent villa” was perched upon a high bluff overlooking the San Lorenzo River.

Another tourist account from 1884 described the journey from the Powder Works up to Big Trees Grove.

“Leaving this scene of busy life we pursue our winding way, and soon arrive at the Rincon, which is a station for shipping lime and wood, [principally] for Davis & Cowell. This locality in former times was the site of Jordan & Co.’s saw-mill. The mill has disappeared, leaving but little save the numerous stumps of trees to show for the busy times enacted more than twenty years ago. The drive now grows more and more interesting. Gigantic redwood and pine trees tower far above the road, lining the mountain-side upon the left. On the right and lower down one sees the railroad track, and still lower the San Lorenzo river, as it dashes and splashes among the rocks and drifts of wood, sending a dull, roaring sound up to the ears of the traveler. Cool springs of water are seen at short intervals, the water trickling down into the road; and every little gulch has a purling stream. Just after passing the Summit, looking down and to the right, you will see the entrance to No. 6 tunnel, which was made to straighten the line. The county road at this point makes a short turn to the right, but only for a short distance; then a sharp turn to the left, and you are going down the grade in the coolest and narrowest part of the canyon. A little farther on the road makes a long detour to the west, then turns sharply back toward the east, and passing the toll house you turn down to the right, and proceed until you come to the river. After crossing it a sharp rise in the road brings you to Big Tree Grove. A more delightful place than this would be hard to find anywhere in the wide world ... “

Sources: Daily Evening Herald (Stockton, California), May 22, 1868; “National Register #15000279 California Powder Works Bridge,” National Register of Historic Places in Santa Cruz County, NoeHill in San Francisco at https://noehill.com/santacruz/nat2015000279.asp; “Stations: Powder Works,” at Santa Cruz Trains – Railroads of the Monterey Bay Area at https://www.santacruztrains.com/2019/12/stations-powder-works.html; Santa Cruz Sentinel, June 29, 1884; Beauties of California: Including Big Trees, Yosemite Valley, Geysers, Lake Tahoe, Donner Lake, S.F. ’49 & ’83, etc. San Francisco, by N.W. Griswold, 1883.